Jute is happiest in consistently hot and arid countries, typically grown for industry in Bangladesh, India (mainly West Bengal), China, Thailand, Myanmar (Burma), Pakistan, Nepal, and Bhutan. Most industry ropes are produced from yarns from India and China, which can produce perfectly fine yarn and inexpensive yarn for this purpose. Bangladesh is widely respected for producing some of the world's finest jute yarns, albeit more expensive. I have found this yarn to be measurably better and therefore the only type of jute yarn that I use. I now have a longstanding relationship with a small jute mill that is happy to produce yarn to my specification.

There are two types of jute plant, White (Corchorus Capsularis)
and Tossa (Corchorus Olitorius).   Tossa produces stronger, silker and softer fibre than its white jute counterpart, therefore I only use Tossa yarn for the jute ropes that I make. 

After harvesting, jute is often soaked for days or weeks in rivers or tanks to soften the fibre for manufacture. Depending on what the yarn is going to be used for determines how well the fibre is treated. Jute yarn is primarily manufactured for industrial tasks like making sacks, backing for carpets, or for industrial rope used in harsh environments such as marine/outside environments. Because of this, yarn is treated with a petroleum-derived oil called Jute Batch Oil (JBO) to make it hardy to water and salt. It tends to be used in excess to create a strong and resilient product. The relationship Shibari has with JBO is complicated! On one hand, we do need our ropes to be mildly water/moisture resistant, but we also need the rope to be safe for skin contact. While uncommon, some people do get skin irritations/reactions with ropes containing JBO; this is more likely when using ropes that have been produced using yarn made for industry. I work closely with our yarn manufacturer to ensure that the minimum amount of JBO is used to produce a rope that can be dyed and that will maintain its shape and integrity. My Jute ropes have a maximum JBO content of 2%. For people who are sensitive to JBO, this may still be too much, and if you react to it, then I would recommend looking at Hemp or Bamboo.

Jute Yarn is graded, with lower grade yarn being darker, with higher "bark" content, varying thicknesses, and less strong.  A higher grade yarn being lusterous, light, low bark content and a uniform thickness and being stronger- and also the most expensive! Our yarn is the top in its grade, giving a consisent look and feel to the end product.

 A debate that many riggers have a firm opinion on, both have their pros and cons. Hardcore Shibari-ists will say that single ply is supreme, while others may reap the benefits of the hard-wearing double ply! It's all down to personal preference.

 

Single ply

My ropes are constructed of a single-stranded yarn, and in a 3-strand twist.

 

Pros:

• Density: Single ply ropes have less bulk, meaning they will compact a knot nicely and come apart easier.
• Flexible: These ropes tend to be more flexible, allowing for smoother movements and easier knot tying.
• Strength: On a single line pull, single ply ropes win on the measure of strength.
• Aesthetic: Single ply tends to be more photogenic.

 

Cons:

• More expensive: This is mainly due to the extra labour involved in making the rope.
• Less durable: As the rope is less dense, it's more prone to compacting with age and use. Eventually, some rope will become too thin to use for anything other than floor work.

 

Double-Ply Ropes:

Pros:

• Increased Durability: Double-ply ropes are more compacted compared to single-ply ropes, meaning they do not thin down as much as their single ply counterparts.
• Enhanced Safety: The added layers provide extra protection against rope burn and friction, reducing the risk of injury during intense or prolonged sessions. 
• Longevity: Double-ply ropes tend to last longer and withstand more wear and tear than single-ply ropes, making them a better investment in the long run.
• Cost: Double-ply ropes are often cheaper than single-ply ropes due to the manufacturing process involved.
• Minimum maintenance - Making 2ply a great choice for beginners and those who want a more forgiving rope, especially for those who are finding they have to replace their rope more than they would like,.

Cons:

Less Flexibility: The additional layers can make double-ply ropes stiffer and less flexible, which may impact their manoeuvrability in handling.

 

Twisted: So once we have good yarn, we now need to decide how to make it into rope. In the world of rope bondage, it tends to favour a twisted 3-stranded rope. Braided ropes are an alternative for those who are practising western and fusion style rope bondage, although they are not ropes that I sell.  The reality is braided ropes are slippier and so some knots are not suitable, braided ropes should only be used for shibari by very experienced riggers who are able to modify their ties for working with braided ropes. There is also a newer trend in sex shops to sell ropes with metal tipped ends, which proves that the people who are producing and marketing these ropes for rope bondage have no understanding of the practise of rope bonage themselves! Rope ends have a habit of flying around a lot, and I’ve yet to meet a rope model who’s not had a rope end to the face- now imagine that rope end with a metal tip-meeting your eye. Sighs. These ropes are hazardous, please avoid them! 

Lay – This is referring to the twist itself – is it twisted left or right/counterclockwise or clockwise (known as S lay or Z lay) and how tight or loose is the rope?

Natural rope is by tradition made in right hand lay (z).  The lay of a rope will impact the way it holds knots, and the direction it naturally coils in, so unless you have a strong reason for wanting to sue S lay rope, and are committing to it, it is best to stick with Z lay rope which is the most widely available rope lay (and slightly stronger the S lay when made from natural fibres).  I only sell Z lay ropes in my shop.

How tight do you like it?

Traditional Japanese style ropes tend to be looser; these are more flexible and faster to work with. However, they do require a lot of maintenance. Western-made bondage ropes tend to be a little tighter and allow for a longer-lasting and hardier rope. Again, this is down to personal preference. All the ropes in my shop are to a "medium" standard. All ropes that are looser are listed as such, which tends to be preferred by experienced riggers who prefer the speed of a looser rope and who are happy with the extra maintenance that these ropes need. (Will talk more about this in my guide on treatment and maintenance.)

Everyone's method for treating Jute is different, a lot of people recommend boiling or baking Jute rope - which i strongly advice against as it can weaken the rope fibers, and release JBO into the atmosphere which is very dangerous. I offer both wet treated Jute, and dry treated Jute (which gives a crisper rope). With both types of rope i then beat them in a special drum which works a bit like a rock tumbler and removes fuzzies, and softens the ropes. This results in a rope that has been 'broken in' before it arrives at your door. I recommend using an oil or paste treatment to prevent the ropes being damaged by friction.